Plant Min Zone: 6a
Plant Max Zone: 11b
Sunlight: Full Sun, Part Sun
Water / Rainfall: Average, High
Soil Quality: Average, Rich
Bloom Season: Spring, Early Summer
Flower Color: Red
Berry / Fruit Color: None
Spring Foliage Color: Reddish Green, Maroon
Summer Foliage Color: Reddish Green
Fall Foliage Color: Reddish Green
Evergreen Foliage: No
Winter Interest: No
Scented Flowers: No
Drought Tolerance: Medium, High
Wet-Feet Tolerance: Medium
Humidity Tolerance: High
Wind Tolerance: Low
Poor Soil Tolerance: No Extreme Soils
Height: 1' - 2'
Width: 1' - 2'
Growth Rate: Medium
Service Life: Medium: 3-5 years
Maintenance Need: Low
Spreading Potential: Extremely Low
Yearly Trimming Tips: Bulbs Do Not Need Any Trimming: Let Foliage Die Back Naturally.
Plant Grouping Size: Specimen Planting of 1-3
Best Side of House: South Exposure
Extreme Planting Locations: Survives Under Roof Overhang, Survives Severe Drought, Resistant to Rabbits
Ornamental Features: Long Blooming Season, Large Tropical Foliage / Flowers, Exceptional / Colorful Foliage
Special Landscape Uses: None
Possible Pest Problems: None
Plant Limitations: May get Occasional Winter-kill, May be Poisonous, Needs Thick Winter Mulch, May be Poisonous
Mary's Hardy Red Amaryllis (Hippeastrum 'Mary') is a cultivar named by Ryan Domnick after his mother Mary. Mary Domnick had grown this beautiful unknown variety for over a decade in the 1980's and 1990's. The glossy green strap-like leaves emerge in spring emerge with a reddish tint. Deep red velvety flowers have a darker red throat and last for about a month. Foliage remains attractive all summer with plenty of heat tolerance. No other cultivars match this pure deep red color! The plants are temperate and subtropical herbaceous perennial bulbs native to areas with a summer wet season and dry winter. Mary's Hardy Red Amaryllis are hardy outside as a perennial when established and mulched at least to zone 6a. During the growing season, fertilize, water regularly, and plant in full sun. Plant these bulbs in the ground at least 6-8" deep with 3-4" of mulch to enjoy a wonderful tropical flowering effect! Trim back foliage after first fall freeze. They can also be grown as a flowering summer patio plant. If growing as a potted plant and trying to overwinter, allowing the foliage to frost is ok, it will not kill the root system. However, do not allow the pot with rootball to freeze solid or go below 20 degrees for more than a few hours; move into a cold garage or basement over the winter with no watering. Cut back and allow to go dormant and place entire pot back out in April or May with a time-release fertilizer. Another more labor intensive way to overwinter gladiolus is to remove them from the dirt, dust with fungicide, place in box with sawdust, and keep in the refrigerator. We consider this method old-fashioned and too much work but ok if you only want to save a few bulbs. If digging from the ground in colder zones, just save a big chunk with the dirt intact and place into a large pot in the garage. In our display garden in Lawrence, KS (zone 6a), several established specimens planted over 4-6" deep and mulched 2-3" with wood mulch survived -17 degrees F. During the arctic blast of February, 2021, lows down to -17 degrees F on Feb 16th, 2021 were recorded. The longevity of this cold blast was also impressive: 10 days on a row with highs of 10-15 degrees F or lower, 8 nights of lows in the single digits and negatives, and 36 straight hours of 0 degrees F and mostly lower. These have been in the ground for over 10 years and muscled through other periods of below zero cold weather.